My only memories of Coffs Harbour being fuzzy childhood ones where a fruity yellow giant featured prominently, it was a surprise to discover that the Big Banana was not in fact the central point around which a tiny town revolved.

By Artemis Gouros

Coffs Harbour was a place we stopped at on family holidays to northern NSW and Queensland, a spot to break the journey and keep us kids amused with a clamber on the good old Big Banana. Coffs Harbour can no longer be considered a stop-over; it is now a destination in its own right. A large and thriving place geared towards, and ideal for, holidaymakers. There is accommodation to suit every taste and budget, beaches galore and plenty of genuinely interesting things to do. Travelling on the XPT was a pleasantly surprising experience. Being a state rail commuter, my only other rail encounters involved dimly recalled overnight train trips where Mum would tuck me tightly into a sleeping berth. The XPT is convenient, comfortable and an ideal way to travel in a group or with children. I was awed by the precision timing (no delays or cancellations on this service), and the efficient, attentive staff. In fact, the train was so swift and tightly scheduled that smokers were told in no uncertain terms, via loudspeaker, to not attempt cigarette breaks. Feeling smug at our will power and control, we tut tutted at the addicts who braved being left behind for a few illicit puffs on the platform. A little daunted at the thought of nearly nine hours on a train, my companion and I had resolved to sleep and read respectively. However, not a page was turned nor an eyelid shut, we were far too busy eating. From croissants with ham and cheese and a proper Devonshire tea, to hot meals and cheese and wine, we barely had time to raise our eyes from our trays to admire the passing scenery. For the less mobile guests, the XPT staff was more than happy to assist by serving them meals in their seats. We contemplated feigning immobility but decided that we probably needed the exercise that the walk to and from the buffet car afforded.

On arrival in Coffs, the first thing I was struck by and continued to exclaim over the entire weekend, was the cleanliness of the streets. I’m sure there must be some litterbugs in Coffs however I saw not a scrap of supporting evidence. All was clean and tidy and very green. A road sign bore testament to my observation urging us to ‘Keep Coffs Harbour beautiful – Proud to be a tidy town’. After being met at the station by the obliging company we hired a car from, our first port of call was the delightful Shearwater Restaurant. We had a restorative cup of tea and enjoyed the views from the deck over Coffs Creek. My companion and I then headed immediately for the Park Beach Plaza where we satisfied ourselves that all the shops we had at home were present and accounted for. We were now ready to head for our lodgings. After a long drive up the Pacific Highway and one false turn that a call to the resort soon put right, we were beginning to question our wisdom in staying out of the city. All our doubts dissolved once we reached our destination. The Darlington Beach Resort was worth the extra twenty minutes of driving. Having only stayed in big resorts up to this point I was unsure what a holiday park would be like and had visions of loud children and louder tourists strung about with cameras. I needn’t have worried; the Big 4 Holiday Parks are a smorgasbord of accommodations. Caravans and camping sites for those who enjoy them, and deluxe villas for unadventurous people such as ourselves. We were gratified to find ensuite bathrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and a comfortable living area with TV and video. The place was spotless and the service, like all that we had experienced in Coffs so far, friendly and helpful.

Eager to explore our surroundings further we decided to dine at the Park’s restaurant our first night. Walking to the main complex, we were struck by the peaceful atmosphere and fresh night air. The ‘Spinifex’ restaurant was a revelation with a menu, décor and service to rival any upmarket big city eatery. Disregarding the damage we had inflicted on the XPT buffet car, my companion and I ordered everything and regretted nothing. We woke early on Saturday, took our coffees onto our private verandah and tried to make with friends with all the colourful birds that came to inspect us. We could have sat there all day but duty in the form of an action-packed itinerary beckoned. First stop was the Coffs Harbour Zoo. Privately owned and run since 1962, the zoo was an absolute treat, a unique opportunity to get up close and personal with the animals. We traipsed through 9.8 acres lovely gardens with excellent pathways and plenty of space. We petted and fed Bluey, quite possibly the most adorable koala that ever existed, and poked (gently) Russell the echidna. Did you know that baby echidnas were called puggles? We certainly didn’t. The tour and information we received was not extraordinary, the size of the zoo and dedication of its staff mean that all visitors can enjoy the intimate knowledge of the animals that the keepers are more than happy to share. At the zoo, we got the sense that the animals lived there unlike other places in the world where it can sometimes feel as though the animals work there. With a licensed café where the food is made fresh on the premises and group bookings available, the Coffs Harbour Zoo is the ideal place for grandparents, parents and kids to all enjoy themselves.

Next stop was the Coffs Harbour Butterfly House, Maze and Tea Rooms. Not knowing a great deal about the habits of butterflies, I was pleased to be informed that they might actually land on me due to my brightly coloured top. We entered the sub tropical garden enclosure and were enthralled by what we saw, not to mention warmed by the climate. The Butterfly House boasts one of Australia’s largest displays of live butterflies. We marvelled at them laying eggs, watched caterpillars on leaves and were able to observe the miracle of metamorphosis. I was stunned by the amazing colours I saw, the butterflies looked like delicate and exquisitely hand painted works of art. With the fun of an outdoor maze complete with a treasure hunt and lovely tea rooms, it’s a place that people of all ages can appreciate. Lunch was at the Tide & Pilot Brasserie at the marina. Impressed by the view from the rocks and all the fishing trawlers at bay, we indulged in a wonderful lunch and an excellent glass of wine, for in Coffs, house wine is decidedly tasty unlike other cities I can think of. The afternoon was largely taken up by a visit to the Porpoise Pool to see the show. The dolphins were charming and a marvel of synchronicity but it was the sea lions that won my heart. They were so clever and talented and remarkably affectionate. We were told that Max the sea lion would presently be bestowing kisses and that anyone who didn’t wish to receive one, had only to stand and Max would understand that her attentions were not desired. My companion intended to stand up however before she had a chance Max was upon us, seated as we were next to her point of entrance.

A large sea lion by any standards, she surged toward us at top speed. Max launched herself at me, flopped wetly and alarmingly into my lap, allowed her enormous bulk to remain there while she firmly pressed her nose into my face, held it for three precise seconds, raised her head, pinpointed the location of her next victim, removed herself and sped off purposefully to rampage through the crowd dispensing kissing banditry. We ended our busy day with a visit to the Clog Barn where we saw a clog making demonstration and privately wondered how on earth people walked in them. As well as a model Dutch Village, there is Big Oma’s coffee shop where wonderful food from Holland is on sale, we stocked up on foreign biscuits, coffee and drinking chocolate. Sunday gave us time to fully appreciate the Big 4 Park we were staying in. With its own beach, swimming pool, lawn bowls, tennis courts, games room and archery, The Darlington is a place where you can laze about or be active. Boasting craft mornings, golf competitions, social hours and a library, taking the grandkids, even without their parents, would be no hardship as the atmosphere and facilities are so good. The Bunker Cartoon Gallery was our last stop before we left. It is Australia’s first and only public cartoon gallery housed in an authentic World War II bunker built for a unit of the RAAF. I was fascinated to learn that Coffs Harbour had been considered a probable location for enemy attack and had consequently been on full war alert.

Saved from demolition in the 1980’s by the Rotary Club of Coffs, the bunker was converted and now houses the largest contemporary collection of original cartoons in the country. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit and were fortunate enough to see ‘Caught’, an exhibition showcasing cartoons, photographs and artefacts on cricket, such as a bat thought to be made in the late 1890’s from cedar grown in the Orara Valley, Coffs Harbour. Rich in history and bursting with community spirit, the Bunker was a great place to take our leave of Coffs. After a last meal in the city centre we returned reluctantly to the train station and lamented all the things we hadn’t had time to do and the places that had gone unseen. Trail rides through the Newfoundland State Forest, adventure cruises on the Coffs coast, scuba diving, kayaking and all the pleasure walks. We resolved to do all of these things next time, for there would be a next time and one that allowed plenty of time for lazing on beaches. After a weekend in a place that previously had only an outsized fruit as its sole claim to fame, we realised that Coffs Harbour is now the perfect spot for a holiday.